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Newer or "Modern" Chypres: Oakmoss Out, Beeswax In?

Posted 5th November 2009 at 08:39 AM by JaimeB (Jaime B's Blog)
Updated 5th November 2009 at 09:13 AM by JaimeB

The thread we were pursuing about Chanel Antaeus, and the interesting question of the use (or not) of oakmoss in its original formula (or subsequent possible reformulations) seems to have shifted focus. The question seems to have come around to what the future of chypres will be with no (or much less) oakmoss. Also, another matter has come up: the use of beeswax absolute in chypres.

The effect of the 1991 IFRA recommendation on restricting levels of oakmoss in fragrances seems to have
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Antaeus: The Scent and the Legend

Posted 26th October 2009 at 07:20 AM by JaimeB (Jaime B's Blog)
Updated 4th November 2009 at 08:26 AM by JaimeB

I recently decided it had been far too long since I last wore Antaeus, Chanel's famous release of 1981, the one that put the now famous nose Jacques Polge on the map. Polge succeeded Ernest Beaux (Chanel No. 5, No. 22, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Īles) and Henri Robert (Chanel pour Monsieur, No. 19, Cristalle) as the chief nose for Chanel. Even today, Polge is behind several of the Exclusifs de Chanel, including Beige, Coromandel, No. 18, Bel Respiro, 31 Rue Cambon, and 28 La Pausa. He also created...
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A Chat with DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae

Posted 18th October 2009 at 07:50 AM by JaimeB (Jaime B's Blog)
Updated 19th October 2009 at 12:54 AM by JaimeB

I was extremely fortunate today to spend a half-hour or more chatting with DelRae Roth, the motive force behind Parfums DelRae. She was spending the afternoon at Barneys, San Francisco, showing and discussing her six meticulously planned and sparklingly sophisticated perfumes, and dropping intriguingly vague hints about another to be introduced in the spring of 2010. The perfect name, she confided, has already been found, but at this point, even that is a tantalizing secret!

DelRae
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From a post to an Off-Topic thread on the Zodiac

Posted 24th September 2009 at 08:11 AM by JaimeB (Jaime B's Blog)
Updated 25th September 2009 at 12:00 AM by JaimeB

I am a Libran with a Scorpio rising sign. In the Chinese Zodiac, I am a Fire Dog. Interestingly enough, I have read that Libra is the equivalent of the Dog sign in Chinese astrology.

I think the Libra profile is pretty close to my personality: basically rational and optimistic, insisting on balance, and being thrown off when things are out of kilter. Also, I think I have some Scorpio traits as well, especailly that thing about sexual passion. (Ahem!) I read that in the Chinese Zodiac,
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Oak Trees and their Symbionts: The Romance of Mistletoe and Oakmoss

Posted 16th September 2009 at 08:21 AM by JaimeB (Jaime B's Blog)
Updated 28th October 2009 at 06:53 AM by JaimeB

The oak tree was sacred to the peoples of ancient Europe. The Greeks dedicated it to Zeus and the Romans, to Jupiter. To the Celts as well, the oak was sacred; in part this was because it was one of the trees that hosted mistletoe. The mistletoe is believed to have been the Golden Bough of Aeneas, the mythic ancestor of the Romans. In the ancient tale the hero Aeneas consults the prophetess, one of the Sybils at Cumae. The Sybil tells Aeneas to break a branch from a certain tree that is sacred to...
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